![]() Or should I let the pump dry out for a day or two before trying this. I have another 2 pole 15 amp (non GFCI) breaker I am thinking of swapping out with the non resetting GFCI just to test and see if it is the breaker but don't know if this could damage the pump if the problem is elsewhere. Its still behaving as described above.Ĭould I have damaged the pump circuit board or is it possible the GFCI breaker went bad? Another question is could the water have gotten deeper into the pump behind the lead (watertight) housing? (This is the area where the electrical leads are connected) I found the leaky culprit and corrected it and after drying everything out for a couple of hours I still cannot get the breaker to reset. The next day (yesterday) after the rain stopped I went under the deck and removed the watertight cover to the electrical connection on the pump housing and found it full of water. I do get a click when I move it to reset (left) but still wont stay on when I move it right, it just goes back to middle when I let it go. Once I let go it just moves back to middle position. ![]() ![]() I don't get that hard click like you get when locks into the on position. I went out to the panel and the GFCI breaker was popped and would not allow for a reset - not even for a fraction of a second. Since the MaxFlo does not have a neutral at the pump, the GFCI breaker at the panel does not utilize the neutral, the white pig tail goes to ground.Īfter 2 days of heavy rain (around 5" or better) my pump stopped working. I had installed a 240v 15amp 2 pole GFCI breaker. Pump was performing perfect the first week after installation. I also look for either a GFCI or a pool transformer junction box, but that is the extent of the GFCI protection testing I can do… Without actually taking the light out of the case, how do you know if anything is properly protected? Often times the timer box will also have a separate GFCI control (not breaker) and doesnt even have a test button.I recently installed a new Hayward MaxFlo 2303VS pump about a week ago on my above ground pool. ![]() Less than 20% of them have GFCI protection and/or bonding of the motor/pump.ĭo you test voltage, or just disclaim that you dont know if the transformer and/or GFCI is working properly? I would say about 20% of the homes that I inspect have pools, and I always look for proper bonding of the pump, screen enclosure, heater, etc. More than 50% of the homes I inspect have pools. I don’t think the transformer should be exposed/rusted, not encased. The above code changes are greatly needed to ensure lives are not lost from easily preventable pool electrocutions. Adding GFCI protection requirements for existing pool pump motors that are replaced, even if GFCI protection was not required when the pool pump motor was originally installed, will help to ensure future pool safety. Previously, the requirement was only for single phase 120-volt through 240-volt branch circuit applications.Īdditionally, new section 680.21(D) now requires GFCI protection for pool pump motor replacements. 2020 NEC, the revised code language, in 680.21© goes considerably further than the 2017 code language did by expanding the GFCI protection requirements to apply to ALL pool pump motors supplied from branch circuits rated 150 volts or less to ground and 60 amperes or less, single- or 3-phase. I use the word corrosion when I run into a situation likes your… That means that the wires coming to the pool light J-box must come from a GFCI breaker. The pool luminary must be installed on a GFCI circuit.
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